Byzantine Travel Journal: Day 10 (Odessa)

2010 © Gregory Scott

Today was our second day in Odessa, but we stayed on board the ship. It was a time to read and relax and think and connect some of the dots before bidding farewell to the Ukraine.

The wife and I have had the opportunity to travel throughout Europe quite a bit over the last ten years, and one thing that impresses me wherever we go it is the reach and influence of the Roman Empire. We’ve seen the remains of Roman building and culture from Scotland to France to the banks of the Danube and as far away as Israel.

Along the northern coast of the Black Sea where we have been the last four days, the Greeks had settlements and left an imprint. The Romans assimilated Greek culture and added to it a practicality conducive to progress and prosperity. It has been said, “The Greeks had brains; the Romans had drains.”

The Romans had a unique approach to empire. Rather than conquer and destroy, they sought to assimilate. In the ancient world the most significant boast one could make was, “I am a Roman citizen.” The Apostle Paul claimed this privilege. (Acts 22:28).

The Romans thought their empire would last forever. In fact, Rome was referred to as “the Eternal City.” Romans thought they would never be conquered.

2010 © Gregory Scott

It is indeed an act of divine irony then that the Lord decided to plant the flag of the kingdom of God, a kingdom which will truly “never be destroyed” but will “endure forever” (Daniel 2:44), in the midst of the Roman Empire.

The kingdom of God did outlast the Roman Empire and continues to expand. If the physical evidence of the Roman Empire is its ruins, roads and aqueducts, then the physical evidence of the kingdom of God is its churches. And one sees churches just about everywhere one goes.

The reach of the kingdom of God is more extensive than the Romans could have ever imagined and the Kingdom will continue to expand, offering citizenship to those it touches, until it fills the earth. GS

Byzantine Travel Journal: Day 8 (Sevastopol)

2010 © Gregory Scott

This is what I saw when I pulled back the curtains this morning. Sevastopol. The former home of the feared Soviet Black Sea Fleet, a port so important militarily in a nation with so little freedom even Ukrainian citizens had to have permission to enter and leave the city.

I think back to when I was in college and we were in the midst of the Cold War, if you had said that within just a few years the Soviet Union would collapse, Communism would be discarded or that in 2010 a cruise ship full of Americans tourists would be docking in Sevastopol next to its navy, no one would have believed you.

Such is history, fluid and full of twists and turns. It is malleable to those with the vision and initiative to shape it. To those with neither, it’s as inflexible as granite. Citizens of the kingdom of God are to be the former. Unfortunately, so many Christians have a philosophy of history that makes any attempt at change seem to them futile.

2010 © Gregory Scott

After a short visit to the monument commemorating the site of the scuttling of the Russian fleet at the Siege of Sevastopol during the Crimean War, we drove to Chersonesos, one of the largest remains of an Ancient Greek settlement in the world. Chersonesos was founded by the Greeks in the 6th century B.C. and was subsequently inhabited by the Romans, Byzantines and Russians.

Most interesting here was not the ruins, but seeing the place where Vladimir I was baptized. A gazebo has now been erected over the spot. As I’ve previously blogged, Vladimir’s conversion to Christianity led to Christianization of Russia. From the perspective of the history of Russia this spot was the most important treasure of Chersonesos, but our guide glossed over it. In fact, I had to break away from the rest of the group to see it.

I don’t blame her. I’ve noticed this in other guides we’ve had from the former USSR. A few years back we were in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg and our guide showed us Rembrandt’s Return of the Prodigal Son. Her explanation on the meaning of the parable was so off it could only have resulted from a guess birthed out of an ignorance of Christianity. This ignorance is not stupidity but a lack of knowledge that is the result of Communism’s atheistic indoctrination of its people.

2010 © Gregory Scott

Our last stop at Chersonesos was the newly renovated and rededicated St. Vladimir Cathedral. The cathedral is a symbol of the rebirth of Christianity in the Ukraine, setting as it does, just yards away from where Vladimir was baptized. The inside was beautiful and ornate, but no photographs were allowed, so you will have to take my word for it.

The people of Ukraine are, for all practical purposes, a blank canvas religiously. From what I’ve seen in St. Petersburg, I suspect this is true of much of the former USSR as well.

Until tomorrow… GS

Byzantine Travel Journal: Day 7 (Yalta)

2010 © Gregory Scott

One of the cool things about a cruise is waking up in a different port every day. Each morning one goes to the window curious as to what new experience waits behind the curtains. This day, Yalta awaited, with her slumbering slopes slipping casually down to the Black Sea.

Yalta is a summer destination for Ukrainians. It was also a summer destination for Russian czars and Russian premiers.

Our first stop was Massandra Palace, Joseph Stalin’s dacha (summer home). This was a place where Uncle Joe could unwind and relieve some of the stress associated with murdering 30 million people. Mass murder has proven to be one of the fruits of political atheism; just ask Pol Pot and Mao Tse-Tung.

Next was Livadia Palace, the place where Roosevelt, Churchill and Stalin carved up post-WWII Europe. It was also the summer home of Czar Nicholas II, the last czar of Russia. Nicholas II, along with his wife, four children, domestic staff and dog, were executed by the Communists during the Bolshevik Revolution.

It has been reported that Nicholas II read his Bible regularly and even underlined his favorite Scriptures. Notwithstanding that, he made some serious errors in judgment and did not follow the counsel of his advisors that could have helped Russia avoid revolution.

It’s not enough to simply love God.  The fear of the Lord is the beginning of wisdom, but it’s just the beginning. If the kingdom of God is going to fill the earth, Christians will need to be more than lovers of God, though that is a necessity; they must also be competent, compassionate, excellent and ethical in the exercise of authority.

2010 © Gregory Scott

Strolling the promenade along the beach at Yalta, we saw two other sights worth noting.  One was Ukrainian men sauntering along the promenade in nothing but Speedos and flip-flops. It was warm in Yalta, but it was not that warm. The other was a huge statue of Vladimir Lenin (see picture).

The two most important Vladimirs in Russian history are Vladimir I and Vladimir Lenin.  Vladimir I converted to Christianity in 988 A.D. and facilitated the spread of the Gospel, helping make Russia a Christian nation.  I previously blogged on Vladimir I here in the Kingdom Hero series.

Vladimir Lenin initiated the Bolshevik Revolution, which installed state-imposed atheism in Russia and the surrounding nations.  The rotten fruit of the bad Vladimir is still seen throughout the former Soviet Republics.

Atheism has no virtue to offer the world. Even Greek and Roman paganism initially inspired some virtue in its followers. Atheism yields only hedonism and selfishness. What a man believes affects how he acts, and how he acts affects the world around him. Faith has consequences. GS

Byzantine Travel Journal: Day 6 (At Sea)

2010 © Gregory Scott

Today we were at sea all day.  I always look forward to at sea days on a cruise because they are days when I don’t have to be anywhere or do anything, which is always part of a good vacation.

I was getting caught up on the news from the States today and saw the story regarding the controversial mosque near ground zero. A lot of people are thinking and debating about how this issue should be resolved.

For a citizen of the kingdom of God the issue is an important one because as the Kingdom expands more Christians will find themselves in authority and leadership positions in governments ruling nations where people practice false religions.

The Byzantines grappled with this same issue in the form of paganism. Constantine I (ruled 306 – 337 A.D.) and Theodosius I (ruled 379 – 395 A.D.), both Christians, instituted laws addressing the practice of false religion.  These two men took two very different approaches to the issue.

Constantine, who became a Christian in 312 A.D., instituted the Edict of Milan in 313 A.D., guaranteeing to Christians and others “the right of open and free observance of their worship.” It is one of the most progressive and important documents in history. Temples remained open and people continued their pagan practices, unless, of course, they became Christians. Constantine’s maxim was that Christians should persuade pagans to Christianity but if persuasion fails, compulsion should not be attempted. Constantine took steps to promote and support the church, but he didn’t ban paganism.

Theodosius took a different approach. In the early part of his reign, he banned public pagan worship and sacrifice, effectively closing the pagan temples. As a result, private homes became the primary place of pagan worship. Interestingly, Theodosius did not ban Judaism or close synagogues. Later in his reign, Theodosius took a much harder line, prohibiting pagan worship and sacrifice both publicly and privately, and imposing harsh penalties on those who violated the law. Theodosius’s reign and his laws effectively put an end to paganism in the Roman Empire.

It’s important to note that neither Constantine nor Theodosius compelled people by force of law to become Christians or attend church. Both recognized that citizenship in the kingdom of God is voluntary if it is anything. So, who was right?

What do you think and why? GS

Byzantine Travel Journal: Day 5 (Istanbul)

2010 © Gregory Scott

We spent the morning on a boat cruising up the Bosphorus, taking in the sites from a different angle. We went north as far Rumeli Hisari (Castle), which Mehmed II built in 1452 to control of the traffic on the Bosphorus and prepare his army to lay siege to Constantinople the following year. Rumeli Hisari is in remarkably good condition, as you can see from the photograph.

By the time Mehmed II attacked Constantinople he controlled the Bosphorus and surrounding land areas. The Byzantines solicited help from the Latin church (the Catholics) to prevent this Christian city from falling to the Muslims, but received only nominal support.

In fact, seeing the threats from the Ottomans years before, the Byzantine Emperor had, against great opposition from his own people, reunited the Eastern Orthodox Church with the Roman Catholic Church, healing, at least on paper, the Great Schism that had happened in 1054. The reunification wasn’t to last long, and it was too fragile to save Constantinople from the Muslims.

After a brief visit to the spice market, we went to the Mosaic Museum where we saw some of the largest and most well-preserved mosaics in the world.  These were from the Great Palace of Constantine, probably from a part added by Justinian in the 6th century.

Having visited Pompeii a few years ago and seen the mosaics and sculptures there in which phallic symbols and other erotic scenes were commonplace, it was refreshing to see here nothing of the sort. In the 500 years from the destruction of Pompeii to the creation of these mosaics, the kingdom of God had leavened and transformed Roman culture.

2010 © Gregory Scott

The highlight of the day was the Basilica Cistern, an enormous underground water jug, supported by more than 300 columns, designed to collect rainwater for use in the palace and surrounding areas.  Most interesting here was the base of two of the columns, not discovered until recently because they are on the base of the column, were under water and could not be seen until the water level receded.

As you can see from the photograph, the figure on the base of the column is the head of Medusa.  A big head.  This head was taken from the Temple of Apollo in Medina. Justinian’s placement of the Medusa upside down, underwater at the bottom of the column was intended to denigrate paganism and symbolize its defeat by Christianity in the Roman Empire.

When we were in Israel a few months ago, we visited Caesarea Philippi in northern Israel, where Jesus told his disciples the gates of Hades would not prevail against the church. (Matthew 16: 18). What I didn’t realize until I was there in Caesarea Philipi and our guide explained it, is that the “gates of Hades” is an actual place. It’s the opening to the cave at Caesarea Philippi, which you see in the photograph. When Jesus was there, the cave opening was surrounded by pagan temples. You can still see the foundations of the temples at the opening to the cave.

2010 © Gregory Scott

The pagans believed this cave opening—the “gates of Hades”—was a door to the spirit underworld. Therefore, when Jesus said the gates of Hades would not prevail against the Church, He was prophesying the Church would soundly defeat paganism within the Roman Empire. These two columns erected in the Basilica Cistern 500 years later, flaunting the defeat of paganism, are proof that Jesus’ prophecy regarding the advance of the kingdom of God in the Roman Empire had been fulfilled. GS